War and Peace, Part II

There are three monasteries on the Akrotiri peninsular near Chania.

The first one you come to driving north towards the sea is Agia Triada built in the Byzantine style in the 17th century. Its butterscotch coloured stone glows in the sunlight and the peace and tranquility was only disturbed by the arrival of a coach full of German tourists.

Four km on but a century older is Gouverneto; one of the oldest and largest monasteries on the island. It feels very remote set in a barren biblical landscape.

A Service was in progress when we visited on Holy Thursday and the small chapel was full of worshippers. The narrow, winding steep ascent to the monastery keeps it free of tourist buses.

Walk on for thirty minutes down a steep winding path past a cave and you come to the ruins of Katholiko monastery built into the rocky hillside. This was thought to have been much older than Gouverneto and to have been abandoned after raids by pirates. However, this seems unlikely and it probably dates from the early 17th century.

After so much spiritual nourishment and a rather exhausting climb back up to the car it was a short drive back to Chania for lunch on the Venetian harbour front where John Craxton lived. In his day Chania was frequented by fishermen and sailors from the naval base at Soúdha. Today it is crammed with tourists and made us appreciate the seclusion we enjoy at the Elia Hotel. One restaurant, more expensive than its neighbours, offered some privacy and a stunning view.

There is a Good Friday procession through the villages near our hotel in the evening but there seems to be a storm brewing and we won’t be joining in.