Monkey Business

Monkey 47 and rosemary.

When in Rome … but when in the Hotel de Rome in Berlin do as the Germans do; Monkey 47, Thomas Henry and a sprig of rosemary as garnish.

Monkey 47 gets its monicker from its strength (47% vol) and its ingredients (47 botanicals). It is distilled in the Schwarzwald. If you’re not quite sure where that is, no need to go to Google maps – it’s the Black Forest. Why an essentially English spirit more at home in London, Plymouth and Cork is being made there I have no idea unless its because of all those regional botanicals, including lingonberries.

EJ Murgatroyd, my private physician, charges me quite a lot of money to tell me to drink less, so it is paradoxical that every one of those 47 botanicals are sold in health food shops. The little red lingonberry (aka cranberry) for instance pulls its weight rather spectacularly, curing cancers and doing a lot of good work in areas of the body not normally discussed here. However, like EJM, all good things come at a price and I don’t blame you if you swerve Monkey 47, retailing at £80 a litre in Waitrose, in spite of its life-enhancing ingredients.

When the Mullens brothers started to sell shirts in the 1970s they chose the name of a long defunct but famous Dublin tailor, Thomas Pink. It is why red hunting coats are still called Pink coats. Thomas Henry was a surgeon and apothecary in Manchester who sold Seltzer water in the 1770s. His name too was adopted in 2010 by a German entrepreneur for tonic water with a distinctive flavour. Gin Kiosk rhapsodise:

Originally, Tonic Water as a drink was very bitter. Much more bitter than we would even recognize today, specifically as the amount of quinine Tonic Waters contain has significantly decreased over the years. This is where the Thomas Henry Tonic Waters of today really stand out however. 

They have edge and their particularly high quinine content and subtle floral citrus aromas, deliver a delicious bitter backbone for those seeking out a crisp G&T. They are genuinely – and take a look at our other tonic reviews to note that we seldom use glowing terms to describe many of them – astonishing. The crisp bitter edge really adds a dimension to a G&T and for those who like tonic water on it’s own, this is a step up.

For classic gins, it allows them to shine, free of any overpowering sugars but in the mix of a brilliant, sparkling effervescence.  For the more modern, less juniper focused gins, the gentle bitterness grounds them, while not hindering big floral or spice notes.

I recently bought Fever-Tree low calorie tonic water as there was no Schweppes slimline at Waitrose, as is often the case. It was so unpleasant that my cousin accused me of putting soda water in her gin by mistake and Thomas Henry may be similar. Gin Kiosk may not be a reliable guide, especially as they misplace an apostrophe. However, Thomas Henry was fine with the pungent Monkey 47. It might not work so well with a tamer gin.

Meanwhile, in the ‘hood, eight RAF ‘planes skimmed the chimney pots at lunchtime on Saturday to mark the Queen’s official birthday and we are getting ready for Queen’s tennis tournament, sponsored this year by Fever-Tree.

 

2 comments

  1. Sadly the Dublin born Mullens brothers are no longer involved in Thomas Pink, having sold the business (for a very healthy sum).

    Isn’t it sad when something is so successful that the only credible thing to do is sell? How many small companies and manufacturers have lost their skills and identity as they are swallowed up by huge international corporations?

    It is horrid to have to talk brass, but today’s post also raises old issues of cost and value. A mere one litre of Gin costing about the same as a Pink shirt? I think I would favour the tangible garment over the transient liquor.

    1. I have known Peter Mullen slightly for very many years. When we first met in the 1970s I did not have expect him to be such a successful entrepreneur. When I last met him over lunch I could see that he has got the hang of running businesses. Since selling Thomas Pink he has bought and sold the firm that makes green gumboots, Hunters, and he has other irons in the fire. I admire his business acumen and I don’t think it is sad when a venture capitalist “passes the parcel”; it is good sense. The sandwich chain Pret has just done the same.
      Incidentally Thomas Pink shirts were so popular because they were well made and cheap. Now they are just as well made but expensive.

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