Bastide Town

The French are better at preserving their architectural heritage than the English. Gascony (aka the Gers) teems with bastide towns built from the 12th to the 14th centuries.

These towns were not originally built to be defended. The nearest 21st century analogy is the Prince of Wales’s model town, Poundbury in Dorset. Bastide towns were all built along the same lines; a central square with a market in the centre and a grid of streets with a church on another smaller square. During the Hundred Years War (1337-1453) it became prudent to build defences. Fleurance was not walled and was occupied by the English at this time before being retaken by the French.

In the past I have been on market days when the town is over-crowded. Yesterday I was able to admire the architecture without distractions. The market has sturdy stone columns that are 19th century, replacing the original wooden posts. Arcades run around the sides of the square with shops and restaurants.

The facades of the buildings have evolved as this picture demonstrates.

The church too has evolved. The square tower is topped by an octagonal spire and the west front shows signs that it has been altered. Inside there is attractive stained glass and columns along the nave combined with a high ceiling give it the atmosphere of almost a cathedral.

Fleurance is not especially touristy and caters to the needs of the locals. Besides all the services you would expect there is even a fish pedicure, something I have never experienced. It cannot be much fun for the fish.