A Place in the Rain

Castello Brown, Portofino.

”Baroness Caterina de Renzis and her late husband, Baron Alessandro de Renzis Sonnino, first saw Castello Sonnino … in 1988. The estate with its 16th century villa had just been left to Alessandro by a childless uncle; in its 500 years of existence, it had been variously inhabited by Frescobaldis, Machiavellis and Strozzis, as well as Sonninos.”

Castello Sonnino.

I read this in FTWeekend – an article by Maria Shollenbarger (sic). Does it remind you of anything? I am reminded of “Guy Crouchback’s grandparents, Gervase and Hermione, (who) came to Italy on their honeymoon … “  and bought Castello Crouchback. (Prologue, Sword of Honour, Evelyn Waugh, 1952). You may remember The Enchanted April, Elizabeth von Arnim’s 1923 best seller, idealising foreign travel pre-Ryanair. She wrote it while staying at Castello Brown (above).

When I choose my title on a drop-down menu I opt for Mr. (I’ve given up hoping for an Hon upgrade). Elizabeth v Arnim could go à la carte: Mary Annette Beauchamp,  Countess von Arnim-Schlagenthin, Elizabeth Russell, Countess Russell. She was a lover of HG Wells to boot. For the avoidance of doubt she didn’t read his books in bed. She wrote for a public library readership longing for comfort reading: sun, scenery and absolutely no sex. Other authors catered for the same clientele in those days, until Jilly Cooper, but I digress.

After the war, aka the emergency or WW II, more than a few Germans bought properties in Ireland, in case the Cold War hotted up. Today viticulturists based in Champagne are seeking land in England. I have friends looking for cottages in the south west of Ireland. It’s hotting up around the Med. It is something worth thinking about unless you are a leathery sun lizard with a penchant for skin cancer.

As it happens at No 56 we have travel restrictions that do not apply to Ireland. Robert (no passport) and Bertie (cannot have rabies jab because of a medical condition and no passport) can go cross-channel so here comes Kerry, come wind, rain and maybe sun.

Ahane, Knocknagoshel, Co Kerry.

I like the look of Ahane; a property with potential. What am I bid? It’s offered at Euros 65,000. I don’t wish to offend the vendor but it doesn’t so much need renovation as demolition. You are buying a secluded site on which to build a dream bungalow – probably off-grid. Or if you are romantic Euros 145,000 buys you bliss on the ocean (good name for a cocktail).

Lauragh, Lower Kenmare, Co Kerry.

Perfect for children, grandchildren and, maybe, friends. No drinks by the pool. Aran sweaters, porridge with honey, walks by the water, dinghy sailing, baked potatoes, black pudding, butter, ham, scrambled eggs, sausages, rashers, baked beans, cayenne pepper ….

“O stop, stop!” cried the Mole in ecstasies. “This is too much!” (Wind in the Willows)