In Valencia in 2016 I saw Joaquín Sorolla‘s pictures for the first time. In March this year I saw more of his work at The Royal Academy in London.
I blogged about both and both times friends added comments to the effect that I should visit Sorolla’s house in Madrid. It is now a shrine to Sorolla preserving much of his furniture and bibelots while also displaying more of his work in three large rooms adapted to show his pictures advantageously. I went today with my sister and Sarah, the now-retired banker. The latter is a dab hand at operating Google maps, at least in comparison with Angela and me, and also has booked tickets for plenty to do over our long weekend.
We have slipped into Madrid-time effortlessly, sitting down to lunch at 3.30 and arriving at the Museo Sorolla fifty minutes after our timed entry. There was a significant queue of non-ticket holders but, after some consideration, perhaps intended to stimulate the always welcome rustle of paper money, we were admitted. The pictures were fascinating in their varying styles and skilful use of light but I’ve already written about them twice. Outside there is a lovely, very restful garden with tiled walks edged by low hedges framing water features and sculptures; a miniature Alhambra.
Sorolla painted the frieze in his dining room, including his wife sitting on a ledge above a doorway, but he also designed the garden as a welcome haven in a hot summer. Indeed he painted many pictures of it in later life. It retained its beauty and its spell even in late October.
I love the Sorolla museum.
Try eating at La Sanabresa, Calle Amor de Dios 12. Then amble down Calle Huertas towards the Castellana popping in for a drink or two along the way.
Had lunch at La Sanabresa today. Excellent sopa castellana and sesos fritos rebozados. The waiter seemed pleased at my choice; not many tourists order fried brains. An excellent recommendation, Claire.
Brilliant! So pleased you found it. I have known it for more than 30 years and whenever I return the waiter remembers me!
Pleased to hear that you are in Madrid.
Sorolla is a wonderful painter reflecting amazing light. I’ve been visiting his house/museum since the 1980s. Edward and I stayed in Moncloa, Madrid with friends Pilar and Jose Gabriel for a few days over New Year’s Eve last year enjoying the quality museums and restaurants.
In a review of the John Lavery exhibition at The National Gallery of Ireland, in the current issue of The Spectator, Sorolla is described as “the Spanish master of light”. Lavery like Sorolla studied Velázquez’s technique.
This blog gives me an excuse to write about Winter in Madrid; since that blog I bought and read the book; a cracking story and a brilliant well researched portrayal of the horror of the Spanish Civil War, including the role of the church. BUT, Sansom is profoundly critical of English private education, its values, and its people. This is not relevant to the story and comes over as political or envy based rant; Its one-sidedness was so irksome that it spoiled my reading of an otherwise good book
Glad to hear you enjoyed Sorolla (which must be one of the best house museums) and Madrid at this time of year. One happy memory is of strolling by as the afternoon sun hit the colonnade above the lake in the Retiro park and the wind susurrated in the umbrella pines. (Or is that my memory overlaying visits?) Private life there seems quite private, but public life in the squares and cafes makes it a wonderful city for visitors. One wonders if you went for flamenco.