After finding the Holy Grail in yesterday’s post, today’s can only come as a disappointment but read on, in case you don’t know who wrote Luke’s Gospel.
Saturday was spent at a museum and an art gallery. Let me get something off my chest. As soon as I get back to London I’m going down to Putney Bridge to have a session with my optician. I am heartily fed up with changing specs to read the labels. I want, probably, bi-focals when I’m in an art gallery.
The ceramics museum is within the townhouse of the Marqués de Dos Aguas. The ceramics might have been of interest if it were possible to take one’s eyes off the architecture and decoration of old Lord Two Waters magnificent house. Yesterday I was dazzled by the Rococo interiors of churches but today I took a leap into turbo-charged Baroque – it’s called Churrigueresque. Why is it called that? Because the curlicues resembled a churrigua – a small pastry like a croissant that is dunked in coffee in Andalusia? Just testing to see how gullible you are. It is called after architect and sculptor, José Benito de Churriguera (1665–1725) and here is the front door.
The extravagantly decorated interiors do not disappoint after the ostentatious doorway.
In 1957 something bad happened in Valencia and has been turned into something good. The river Turia flooded the city. Rather than strengthening the banks it was decided to divert the river and make the riverbed into a four mile long park, looping round the old city, more than fifty years before the High Line in New York was dreamed up. We crossed it to visit the Museo de Bellas Artes but will see more of it in the next few days. The early altarpieces on the ground floor are super; I especially liked this picture of the Virgin Mary dictating to St Luke. It is believed by some that she dictated Luke’s Gospel to him and this captures the moment. She looks jolly bossy and I cannot imagine the lamb being much help.
The unique selling point, however, was pictures by artists that you might not see outside Spain. There is a permanent display of work by Joaquín Sorolla. He does have much work on show in the Prado, the United States and Europe but was new to me. Here is one of this prolific artist’s pictures that I saw. He was born in Valencia and is buried here. This captures his Andalusian heritage.
What terrific photos and commentary Christopher. This is the first time I have read your blog, prompted by Anthony Glaister who called by to see me in Bury St Edmunds yesterday, and of course we reminisced about old times and friends. Keep travelling and keep sharing your experiences and insights. Rosie Varley (nee Bowen-Wright)
Rosie, do get in touch when you are in London, meanwhile I will try to keep you amused.
You can visit .sorolla’-s house in Madrid. Full of his joyous paintings
They, or the ones I saw, are joyous. I’d like to compare him to Whistler or Sargent but (and there are similarities) he also has a Spanish dimension not least because he can depict his subjects outdoors in warm sunlight.