“Drink Time! In the Company of Patrick Leigh Fermor” is a memoir by Dolores Payás describing her visits to his house in Greece near the village of Kardamili in Mani in the last two years of his life. It bursts with her affection and admiration for him and is an admirable coda to his life.
But what to drink while reading it? Summer in a country like the UK is to be savoured. Pimms seems to have gone somewhat out of fashion. I had a draught Pimms at Wimbledon this year; £8 for a very weak pint. Aperol, impossible to buy here a few years ago, has become ubiquitous with an Aperol Spritz largely replacing Campari and soda on cocktail lists. Prosecco and, better in my opinion, Crémant d’Alsace, are good and well-priced alternatives to Champagne. Riesling, however, is often overlooked and there is a staggering bargain to be had in this department which I’d like to share with you. Old claret and old Burgundy is widely sought after and priced accordingly; old Riesling is much less popular and like some sherries astonishingly well-priced.
I want to direct you to a Graacher Himmelreich Riesling – Spätlese. The name is enough to put most people off, although the label does have an enticing picture of an old-looking house with a modern extension, which may be where the wine is made. The house is sheltered by trees and behind, a gentle hill rises planted with vines. I have never been to Mosel but it makes me want to. The pale, gold wine has a bouquet of honey and peaches but in the mouth this is balanced with a little acidity and there is plenty of length. It is only 8% alcohol, perfect as an aperitif before lunch. in the garden. Now for two surprises: it is sixteen years old – that’s right, it is the 1999 vintage; it costs less than £10 at Majestic.
Can you imagine a claret of such an age at such a price? There are sometimes unexpected bargains to be had and as your self-appointed Cheap Life correspondent I will make sure you are kept informed.