Le Stopgap

Friends sent me these flowers as a thank you for having them to lunch.

My guests were two couples and a male friend. The three men had all been in the Honourable Artillery Company with me in the 1970s; I had been to their weddings (just one apiece) and am god-father to a child from each marriage. They had come from three points of the compass – not East – and it makes me think that kind of reunion is more fun than a big party.

The flowers will not last like our friendship but they gave me something else that has lasted: membership of the Wine Society. I thought it would be interesting to see the society’s offerings in the 19th century, imagining it would feature Claret, Burgundy and wines from Germany but I had a surprise.

Hard to imagine ordering Virgin Marsala by the gallon but something to consider as UK Duty on alcohol goes up in August. Do not despair, the Wine Society are holding their prices until the end of the year. One of their quirkier and best value offerings is this French dry white: Le Stopgap Chardonnay 2021. Pourquoi?

“In a year when the vineyards of France were blighted by frost, we’ve been able to create a chardonnay using fruit from three sources in the Languedoc, including Limoux, and a touch from the Mâconnais for a touch of class and a dry, crisp, ‘je ne sais quoi’.” (Wine Society)

Et c’est bon?

”This hits the middle ground between fruity and mineral. A terrific blend of freshness and ripeness. Chardonnay rather than a terroir wine but the dry texture is very ‘French’. Clever blend and as good as many an entry-level burgundy. Nicely dry finish. 2021 was a very small vintage in Burgundy hence the creation of this blend to fill the gap. Hence the name. Good value. 16/20. Julia Harding MW” (jancisrobinson.com)

Good value? It’s £7.50 a bottle. Pity it’s not being sold by the gallon.