The Via San Gregorio Armeno is a narrow alley in Naples full of shops selling nativity scenes. When I went some years ago I thought it all rather kitsch, verging on vulgar. I have changed my mind.
“It’s surprising, but the presence of a nativity scene in Naples is recorded for the first time way back in 1021, in a notarial act that mentions the Church of Santa Maria al Praesepe. The depicted scene represents the classic Christian nativity with Baby Jesus in the manger, the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, the donkey, and the ox. In 1340, Queen Sancia D’Aragona, wife of Robert of Anjou, donated a nativity scene to the Clarisse for their new Church. Again, it was a basic representation with a cave, the Holy Family, and animals. Today, the statue of the Madonna is preserved in the National Museum of San Martino.
However, it’s around 1500 that the birth of the popular nativity scene in Naples is witnessed, thanks to Saint Vincent Gaetano di Thiene. He is credited with the spread of the nativity scene as we know it today. In fact, upon his arrival in Naples in 1533, according to the accounts of the time, he organized a nativity scene with figures dressed as people of that era, in the Oratory of Santa Maria della Stalletta. From that moment, not only were the main characters represented, but also the daily life of the people who animated the streets of Naples: shops, scenes of daily life, the very essence of pure humanity.
The pinnacle of the art of the Neapolitan nativity scene occurred in the 1700s when, from representations in churches, it transitioned to the homes of the aristocracy. Riding the wave of cultural and artistic renewal in the city as desired by King Charles III of Bourbon, even the Neapolitan nativity scene acquired new values. From solely religious patrons, the art expanded with requests from nobles and the wealthy. Artisan workshops flourished with nativity scene masters creating intricate figures, depicting not only the Holy Family but also everyday life with extraordinary details. The wealthiest families began competing with increasingly imposing and scenic nativity displays.
Giuseppe Sanmartino, one of the greatest sculptors of the 18th century (creator of the Veiled Christ in the Sansevero Chapel in Naples), gave life to the Neapolitan Nativity School.
Among the most beautiful nativity scenes in all of southern Italy, where we can admire some figurines created by Giuseppe Sanmartino himself and other great Neapolitan sculptors from the 18th century, is ‘The King’s Nativity’ in the Palatine Chapel of the Royal Palace in Naples. The nativity scene is hosted on loan and constitutes one of the most fascinating and rich collections of 18th-century nativity art. The precious collection includes 210 ‘shepherd’ figures and 144 various accessories from dismantled nativity scenes, most of which were sold or dispersed at the dawn of the 19th century.
Another famous nativity scene is the Cuciniello nativity, created between 1887 and 1889, exhibited at the Certosa of San Martino.” (Mondo Cattolico, Rome)
There is no need to go to Italy to see rather a good nativity scene this year. Until 31st December this is what you will find in the Faith Museum in Bishop Auckland.
“Standing 11 feet tall and 15 feet wide, this stunning 18th-century wonder is among the most significant examples outside Italy. The scene is a vibrant blend of classical and Christian traditions, set against the everyday life of Naples. Featuring 421 intricately detailed hand-made figures, the display includes lively street vendors, musicians, shepherds, farmers, travellers, and children, a diverse array of animals such as goats, cats, and oxen, and a breath-taking model of the streets of Naples in miniature. Central to the piece are the biblical figures of the Holy Family, the wise men, angels, and humble shepherds.” (Auckland Project)
If I were a child again I’d enjoy having a basic scene and adding new figures every year.