Upstream

In the oil business “upstream” is the jargon for exploration and production, “downstream” is refining and “midstream” something in the middle, namely transportation. Living near the Thames I use “upstream” more literally.

Walking upstream from Hammersmith Bridge along the north bank, there is beautiful architecture and a profusion of blue plaques and pubs. This one seems to be attempting a recreation of Basil’s Bar in Mustique – never been, but my sister used to be a habitué.

Press on, and in about two miles you reach Chiswick House. Tourists unfamiliar with London often trek out to Hampton Court or Windsor and literally drive past this 18th century masterpiece; big mistake.

Lord Burlington, who you will recall had his London house on Piccadilly where the RA is today, designed this perfectly proportioned neo-Palladian masterpiece himself, assisted by William Kent. Kent also designed most of the extensive and impressive gardens. (They are reminiscent of his work at Stowe in Buckinghamshire, although on a smaller scale, and Charles Bridgeman and Capabilty Brown both made important contributions there.) It was completed in 1729 and remained in private ownership for two hundred years, until the Duke of Devonshire sold it to London County Council. It suffered bomb damage in WW II and might have been pulled down without the intervention of the Georgian Group in the 1940s.

It was not properly restored until this century under English Heritage. Now house and gardens are pristine. Entry to the latter is free and there are tours of the house, but not every day. Every tourist attraction needs a cafe and EH are to be congratulated on the design they chose here. It is by London practice, Caruso St John.

The glasshouses are impressive too. They were used in 1966 for videos by The Beatles to promote their singles, Paperback Writer and Rain. Lord Burlington, as a notable patron of the arts, would surely approve. Incidentally, they are claimed to be the first pop videos.