Broken Line

You may remember, I do, the ferry tragedy at Zeebruge in 1987 when Herald of Free Enterprise, a roll-on/roll-off car ferry, capsized killing 193 passengers.

The accident happened because the bow doors were not closed when the vessel put to sea. A much worse disaster struck the Estonia on 28th September 1994. It left Tallinn bound for Stockholm on a Tuesday evening, an overnight voyage still made today. At around 1.00 am in high winds, creating five metre waves, the bow door came off and the ship quickly sank. Of the 989 people (803 passengers and 186 crew) on board just 137 were rescued. Of the 852 who died, 757 were never found. (There were two passengers from the UK, one of whom survived.)

The only worse maritime peace-time disasters were the Titanic and HMS Ireland. The latter sank near the mouth of the St Lawrence River in May 1914 and of the 1,477 people on board, 1,012 died. Of course, much closer to Ireland, just off Kinsale the Lusitania was torpedoed in May 1915 and 1,196 lives were lost.

Broken Line, Tallinn, February 2026.

The Estonia tragedy and the victims are remembered by this black granite sculpture; two curves with a gap between them symbolising the lives severed.

War of Independence Victory Column, Freedom Square, Tallinn, February 2026.

The Cross of Liberty and the Monument to the War of Independence was opened in 2009 as a memorial for those who fell during the Estonian War of Independence in which 4,000 people were killed and 14,000 wounded on the Estonian side. The pillar is 23.5 metres high, consists of 143 glass plates and incorporates the Cross of Liberty, Estonia’s most distinguished award established in 1919. Actually, the idea for a memorial was conceived in 1919 although it took ninety years to come to fruition.

Bookshop, Tallinn, February 2026.

To cheer myself up I went into a bookshop to look for a Wodehouse. I couldn’t find, so asked an operative without much hope of success. He furrowed his brow and after a moment said “the man who wrote Jeeves and Wooster? I think there is one in storage at the back”. There was.

2 comments

  1. I remember the Zeebruge Ferry sinking.It was such a shock,as the Ferries going to Ireland were similar and it made one realise that it was not just another awful news story.Over the years I had used them endless times.There used to be a tannoy announcement saying the doors had been closed before sailing

    1. Thank you Christopher.Thank you Michael.
      Our fate as small island nations ,surrounded by seas and the Atlantic Ocean is one destined to suffer such tragic ends.Thank you both for remembering and honouring their loss.I love knowing that Tallin bookshop owner found the book you wanted! Now THAT’S a book shop! And I am glad it brought your comfort this February in Tallinn.Books,music such as Stevie Wonders’ singing ‘Yester..day’ and your blog & comments help keep the World steadily spinning.Thanks again.

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