Rolls and Royce, Bryant and May, Callard and Bowser, Huntley and Palmer, are as well-known as fish and chips. A relatively new pairing is Corbin and King.
In the 1970s Chris Corbin was the maître d’ at Langan’s and Jeremy King was doing the same thing at Joe Allen’s. It is easy to transpose their Christian names, I just did. In 1986 they were both poached (aptly for restaurant jobs) to run Le Caprice. Since then their elegant fingerprints have been on a plethora of desirable London eating-holes. They passed on many of their famous names to Richard Caring about ten years ago – including Le Caprice, J Sheekey and The Ivy – and promptly opened a new slew of every-bit-as-popular eateries: The Wolseley, Delaunay, Zédel, Colbert …
All these places cater for people who eat out a lot, want unfucked-up food, super-good service and a welcoming atmosphere. Perhaps also they take comfort not just from the food but from the sometimes,slightly-famous clientele. It is a formula that has been working for thirty-five years but now the currency is being debased. Richard Caring, having hitherto kept up C&K’s standards, is opening new branches of The Ivy around London – a recent branch is on Kensington High Street and there are others on the King’s Road and in Covent Garden. They deliver on menu and service but they score badly on atmosphere – more like a Lyons Corner House than a destination restaurant. However, they do get top marks for their Christmas decorations.
Less glitzy and more traditional is the Christmas tree extravaganza (there are ninety) at The Churchill Arms on Kensington Church Street. It has been in The Times, on the BBC website etc – but in case you missed it.
They push the boat out in summer too.
Visitors to London wanting to hit the restaurant scene asap should note that, if approaching by road from Heathrow, there is not a Heston Blumenthal restaurant on the M4. Heston Services will, however, provide an insight into a customer-base best described as Lowest Common Denominator. Do not think that all Motorway Services are as bad as this, although most are. In Cumbria on the M6 Tebay Services is recommended, both for its catering and views. It may not be a healthy choice but Cumberland sausage is great comfort food that will tide you over until you reach the land of the haggis.
Now how about some gingerbread for pudding?
Add Gloucester Services on the M5 – Northbound and Southbound – owned by the same family as Tebay and every bit as good. A standard that few others can get anywhere near.
Looks like you might have got your appetite back.