Duel Purpose

I read in the FT three recommendations for places to eat outside in London; a timely feature as the weather warms up. One of their picks is Boulestin in St James’s Street (above) and, before you book a table, you might like my slant.

First, before lunch, take a look at the shops either side of Boulestin. On the south side is Berry Bros & Rudd, venerable purveyor of fine wine, see Royal Ginger (not Prince Harry). On the other side is John Lobb, chap who made boots for the aristocracy. The first time I went into this splendid shop (gosh no, temple) I bought some shoe polish, the most I could afford. More recently and more wedged-up I went back. There is a lot of stuff to see, almost a museum, but before long I was invited to state my business. I commissioned a wallet. Bolts of leather were pulled out. If I were Master of the Pythchley ordering two dozen pairs of hunting boots, I could not have been treated more courteously and cordially. I chose a bottle green leather and then was persuaded that it would make it look more interesting if the lining was in black. The leathers are soft and, so far, long-wearing. The receipt for my deposit looks more valuable than many a share certificate for a dodgy South American mine.

Beware of imitations; John Lobb in nearby Jermyn Street belongs to LVMH. It does its best to look like the real thing. Only a few readers here will contemplate even a pair of Lobb black lace-ups but the shop is open to all and there are many other leather items to be pleasurably commissioned. I think entry level would be a small, monogrammed key fob.

But let’s get back to Boulestin next door. Something the FT omitted to mention is that the pretty courtyard where you can now dine was the last duelling ground in central London. I was told this by Norman Murphy, Remembrancer and former distinguished chairman of the PG Wodehouse Society, on a PGW-themed walk that he expertly and exhaustingly guided. We re-enacted a duel in the courtyard, to the inconvenience of some diners who had their tables moved by Norman.

Now to business. If you drop in on a warm weekday lunchtime you will inevitably be consigned to a table in the interior where you will enjoy a perfectly good lunch. You may blench at the bill, but hey, you’re in St James’s. If you’d like to eat outdoors and have a slightly cheaper menu, go on a Saturday. The fixed price menu then is £19.50, reduced from £24.50 on weekdays. There is Prosecco at £8.50 a glass, only available as Champagne on weekdays at £11.50 a glass – you get my drift.

But my top tip for al fresco eating, other than buying a picnic and taking it to a park, is the Polish Club in Exhibition Road. Membership is not required.

This week I am walking in the Peak District, not in John Lobb’s boots. I vividly remember liking this half a century ago.